Indore’s Sarafa, India’s first & only night street food market
Indore being Madhya Pradesh’s business capital, it might as well be called the food capital too. Indore is a city that prides itself on its food. It’s the only city that I can think of where they have a whole street famously called ‘Sarafa’ that serves the tastiest vegetarian snacks, chaat, and sweets right from 8 pm up to 2 at night, converts into a fully pedestrian one with people from Indore and tourists in equal numbers visiting it at night. Needless to say that it’s completely safe to go there and the experience is something we would recommend every foodie to take at least once in your life. The street food of Indore has its roots based in recipes from Rajasthan, Gujarat and Maharashtra. These three combined will serve to give you a delicious meal that will have you smiling all day!
History & Belief
The streets behind Rajwada in Indore are crowded jewellery Market in the daytime and hence name Sarafa Bazaar which started in early 19th century, however, no one is sure of the origin of the night food bazaar. Some believe it started some 100 years back and was encouraged by jewellery shop owners so that their shops were secured even post midnight. With this in mind they willingly started offering front space of their shop to food vendors and thus Night Food Bazar came in existence ensuring the streets are empty only for few hours in the early morning.
The tick off list for Sarafa must include dishes such as Garadu, Khopra Pattice, Batla Kachori, Bhutte ki kees and the best of North Indian sweets such as Malpua, Moong daal halwa, Rabri, Kulfi, Kesariya doodh and Gulab jamun. Do not miss Joshi ke dahi bade (since 1977), Nagori ki Shikanji, Rajhans ka Daal bafla before closing the night’s gluttony with Anna ka paan.
The must-go-to places for food in Indore:
1. Dahi Bada
Dahi Bada, or Dahi Vada as we call it, is extremely famous in Indore. The best place to taste most of the street food dishes is at Sarafa Bazaar. Try out the Dahi Bada at Joshi Dahi Bada House, Sarafa. The badas here are prepared in style, with them sometimes being tossed in the air, much like a pizza base! The masala sprinkled on it is out of this world and you must taste it to believe it.
2. Sabudana Khichdi
Yummy and unique, Om Prakash Vyas of Saawariya Seth has his own style of making the sabudana khichdi that his father started making in 1983.
3. Khopra Patties
This well-known dish consists of deep-fried potato balls stuffed with coconut made specifically by Vijay Chaat House. Fried right before your eyes, just when they are ordered.
4. Bhutte ki Kees
Bhutte ki Kees is a specialty in Indore. It’s a very popular street food item and every tourist who visits does not leave without trying it out. Essentially, this dish is made with boiled and mashed corn fried in ghee. It’s then mixed up with besan, hing, jeera and a lot of other spices. It tastes really delicious!
5. Kulfi Faluda
With rising mercury levels, the Indian ice-cream, Kulfi Faluda comes to the rescue. Offered in shops like Nema Kulfi Faluda centre will give you a much-needed ice-cream break if you happen to visit the city during the summer season.
6. Poha
Indori poha (flattened rice) is a specialty that is served with a mountain of sev and pomegranate seeds as breakfast, along with jalebi.
7. Jalebi
In Indore, Jalebi was a regular food item to be relished only in morning with Poha (Puffed Rice dish). But in Sarafa Night Market your mouth will go wide open when you see a 250 gram Jalebi being fried in Pure Desi Ghee. This big jalegi is commonly called as the Jaleba by the sellers.
8. Garadu
A winter specialty, Garadu is made with chunks of purple yam, fried to crispy perfection and served topped with spices and lemon juice. This can be found at any push-cart stalls in Sarafa Bazaar.
9. Mawa Baati
Mawa Baati is one of the most delicious sweets of Indore. It is, for all intents and purposes, like a large gulab jamun. It’s filling consists of crispy and rich nuts. You can taste the Mawa Baati at any of the stalls along Sarafa Market.
10. Shikanji
The Indori shikanji is a totally different experience, made of milk and dry fruits mixed with mattha (buttermilk) which lends it just a hint of tanginess in the midst of the sweetness. A trip to Sarafa is incomplete without trying the distinct Nagori Shikanji.
